A Do It Yourself Guide On How To Make Your First Ever Skate Ramp
If you don’t have any skate park nearby or you just want to be able to wake up grab your board and start practicing every ramp trick you learn, then maybe you should consider your own ramp. It might take some time but the effort will be worth it.
We can mention two important material alternatives when we think of making a ramp, concrete and wood. Concrete molds are easy to make but the problem comes when you need to press it because it’s absolutely necessary to have a real press. Once you have that then you need to get a uncut skateboard deck, a wooden box and concrete. Rapid set (4 cement All pre-mixed 55lb/25kg bags are the best) or hydraulic cement are the most common ones, it sets quicker (within 1 hour) and has more strenght.
The Easier Alternative Is To Build a Skate Ramp From Wood
The wood ramps are easier for a regular person to build because of the practicality of getting the materials needed. A big piece of advice is to get coarse drywall screws for indoor ramps and galvanized deck screws for outdoor ramps. Also, treated lumber have a poisonous pesticide for the wood, so be careful. You can buy the wood and hardware from a home improvement store. Sometimes finding steel is an issue, so you can look for steel fabricators or salvage steel on the internet.
The pressure treated lumber is to protect the ramp from the environment, covered with paint and tarp. A composite material for the surface will also help (Skate Lite or Ramp Armor).
There are a lot of types of ramps you can make, in this case you will learn how to build a 3’ quarter pipe. Get 13 2x4’s decks and cut them at 3’-10 ½ in length (you will get 2 out of each 8’ long 2x4).
This plywood layout illustration depicts the side and deck of quarter pipe being cut from a sheet of 3/4’ plywood.
Drawing the Transition
Grab a 8’’ long 2x4. Drill a hole on one end of about 3/8’’. Measure from the hole, out the distance of the transition radius (6’-0). Place a screw in that place but without going all the way through the 2x4.
Take your 3/4’’ plywood and lay it on a fairly leveled surface. Grab another sheet, place some scrap wood under it to bring it up to the 3/4’’ level. Place it next to 3/4’’ plywood, long end to long end touching. With the 2x4 made earlier, screw the screw in the 3/8’’ plywood as shown above. Then draw a radius using the 2x4 for guidance. Once you finish, measure up 2’-11 1/4’’ and out 5’-10 3/4 from the bottom left side completing the drawing transition.
Cutting the Transition
Cut on the lines you drew for the transition. This 3/4’’ will also be used for the top layer of the deck. You may also use this transition as your template to trace onto the plywood and cut out the other side.
Mounting the Bottom
Attach the bottom and top 2x4’s as shown.
Framing the Center
Take the remaining 2x4’s and frame the deck with the riding surface portion placing the 2x4’s 8” on center except where noted.
The size of the steel pipe you need is 2 3/8’’ (60.33mm) outside diameter, with a wall thickness of 7/32’’ (this pipe is known as 2’’ OD, Schedule 80, black steel pipe). If you want the pipe to last, don’t use PVC or an electrical conduit pipe.
Drill a 3/8’’ hole on the outside of the steel coping. Then drill a 3/16’’ hole on the inside of the coping while making sure they line up. After this, place the coping in the notch you cut out earlier. By feeding a screw through the outside 3/8’’ hole, place it into the 3/16’’ inner hole. This last part will need a little bit of patience. Screw it down and move on to the next pre drilled hole. It must be a screw on each end and one in the middle.
Cut two pieces at 4’ by 11 1/4’’ from the remaining 3/4’’ plywood and screw them to the top of the ramp. You must put screws about a foot apart in each 2x4.
Covering the Ramp
Get the 3/8’’ plywood and cut out a piece 5’-6 by 4’-0. Place a foot apart from the screws starting at the top and working down the ramp. You may use a 2x4 in order to mark a line across the ramp so you don’t mess up.
When the bottom layer finally is attached, cut a piece of the 3/8’’ plywood to 5’-9 by 4’-0. This is your second layer and you attach it just like the first one.
With both of the 3/8’’ sheets screwed down cut a piece of masonite 4’-6 by 4’-0 and attach them like the last two layers but countersinking the screws using a countersink bit (this will let the surface to be smoother and prevent your body to get ripped in a fall).
If all this construction comes out correctly, there should be a 1’-6 space between the masonite and the ground, that´s why it is necessary to place the 4’ x 1’-6, 3/16’’ thick sheet metal. Drill a 3/16’’ hole about 2 inches from eachother on both sides and one in the middle. Then countersink each using the 3/8’’ drill just enough so the screw heads are flush.
Congratulations! Now your ramp is ready for use. Take good care of it and call all your friends to try it out. Have you made your own ramp, or are you considering making one? Let us know in the comments below!